Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
